How To Deal With Sensitive And Sensitised Skin
Up to 90% of the population perceives their skin as sensitive. But do you really have sensitive skin?
This inquiry is not posed to make you question your skin’s redness, irritation and discomfort. It is actually posed to point out there is sensitive skin, and then there is sensitized skin. Sensitized skin is the growing phenomenon of skin experiencing sensitivity because of environmental assaults, cosmetics, poor diet and the natural aging process.
Sensitive skin versus sensitized skin
A true sensitive skin type is caused by a genetic predisposition. This genetic predisposition is found in those who have very fair skin and are usually of Northern European ancestry.
Someone with a truly sensitive skin is highly prone to blushing and may experience bad hay fever, allergies or asthma.
Sensitised skin can affect any person of any racial background or skin colour. Symptoms for sensitive and sensitized skin do have a lot in common (itching, burning, redness, flushing and stinging), but in many cases, sensitized skin can’t be seen by the naked eye, as it resides much deeper. And, our microclimate, or the climate we are exposed to in our home, cars, offices and during air travel, changes daily, meaning our level of sensitization can vary.
What causes sensitized skin?
Environmental Assaults
The fastest rising factor contributing to sensitized skin is environmental assault, as the epidermis (top layer of skin) is constantly exposed to assault from the sun, extreme weather and pollution.
1. The Sun
Exposure to the sun causes water to evaporate from the skin, making it more prone to sensitivity. Summer activities, such as swimming, can also cause skin irritation, as chlorine in pools and salt in ocean water are abrasive and drying.
2. Pollution
On average, our skin is exposed to an estimated 6 million chemicals, and roughly 2,800 of these have sensitizing properties. Extensive exposure to Nitrogen oxides (from road traffic, industrial heating units, etc.) and volatile organic compounds (from hydrocarbons and waste) contributes to the steady rise in sensitized skin cases.
3. Cold Weather and Low Humidity
Cold winds and low temperatures can dry out skin, depriving it of balanced levels of oil that keeps skin lubricated. Without these oils, skin becomes dry, and is more prone to sensitivity because of the lack of protective oils. This goes for forced air heating as well. Warm, dry air acts like a sponge, soaking up moisture from everything it touches.
Aging
Scientists agree that there is a sharp decline in the Stratum Corneum lipids as we age (lipids are fats that are essential for the structure and function of living cells). Meaning by the time we reach age 40, our skin will almost certainly be dry and/or dehydrated. Without these protective lipids, skin is left exposed and defenceless against external aggressors, and the chances for reaction to the environment increase.
Ingredients
Certain ingredients in cosmetic can cause irritation and exacerbate skin sensitivity. More importantly, these ingredients can be found in skin care ingredients that claim to help treat sensitised skin! Some ingredients that can sensitize skin include fragrances, D and C colours, preservatives, and lanolin.
Lifestyle
The lack of “good” fats in our diets is a contributing factor in skin sensitivity and could explain the increase in the percentage of the population that suffers from psoriasis, eczema and dandruff. Smoking can also have a drying effect on skin, as smoking inhibits the body’s ability to provide oxygen and nutrients to the skin. Smoking drains skin of vitamins A and C and restricts blood vessels - meaning smoking is somewhat like suffocating the skin from the inside. And, an excessive intake of alcoholic beverages and certain medications (such as nasal decongestants) can also contribute to dry skin.
Over-cleansing
The loss of existing oil is commonly caused by excessive bathing or showering, scrubbing, or the use of harsh soaps that dissolve the protective layer of oil. In addition, shaving without a protective medium or using dull razors can also weaken the skin’s barrier function, leaving it exposed to environmental assaults.
How do I treat my sensitized skin?
When skin is healthy, a sensitized skin condition is minimized. Professional skin treatments coupled with the right lifestyle choices are great ways to begin treating sensitized skin. An effective sensitized treatment will include gentle cleansing, soothing and
anti-inflammatory based products, hydration and pressure point massage techniques to help increase the skin’s natural protective barrier while repairing previous environmentally-induced damage. The “less is more” rule should be followed during any professional sensitized skin treatment and at-home regime. Exoliation can be performed on sensitized skin, but should be done only under the recommendation of a professional. A traditional product used is Dermalogica’s ‘Daily Microfoliant’, as it does not compromise the barrier level off the skin, is non-invasive and less aggressive than other forms of exfoliation. Essential oils of Lavender, Sandalwood and Eucalyptus are ideal for hydrating and healing sensitized skin.
The success of treating your sensitized skin will be heavily influenced by your homecare routine, and the wearing of sunscreen anytime skin is exposed to daylight. Dermalogica’s ‘Super Sensitive Faceblock spf30’ utilizes physical UV-blockers instead of chemical UV-blockers which can sometimes increase irritation. Proper skin care techniques will also help ease skin sensitization. Do not use hot water when cleansing, don’t use excessive or abrasive movements, and stay away from artificial fragrances or colours. In addition, take note of what triggers the ‘red’ reaction in your skin. Certain foods such as artificial sweetners or spices can bring about the flush look. Also be aware of your hormones, stress levels, physical excertion, adrenal shifts and alcohol and nicotine intake.
With the correct products and advice you are able to successfully treat both sensitive skin types and sensitized skin conditions.
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